Monthly Archives: April 2025
JenResources 4/27/25
The weather and soil temperatures have been incredible for planting progress in this part of the State! The main agronomic question I’ve received the past few weeks has been from those with small grain cover crops around termination timing. We share more details in this article, although decisions are based on individual producers’ goals and the situation in each individual field: https://cropwatch.unl.edu/2021/cover-crop-termination-tradeoffs/.
It’s been a very different spring with small grain and pasture growth. In some ways, it reminds me of 2023, but in others, it seems worse. There was a period of time I was watching small grains, especially in non-irrigated fields, just “set” and not grow. Pastures were doing the same thing. Now in non-irrigated fields, I’m seeing rye that’s fairly short and in boot to heading stage, far earlier than it should be. My biggest concern for non-irrigated fields is soil moisture. It’s a field by field assessment and I recommend that growers be digging in fields to have a better idea of soil moisture and depth of moisture. Even for some growers that typically plant green, we’ve made the call to terminate prior to planting or at planting to conserve what moisture we can.
For the irrigated fields, the rye is also maturing quicker than expected, and for some, has gotten taller than they had desired before planting. For those who were planning on planting soybeans green into the rye, I’m not concerned about the rye “getting too tall”. You will observe the soybeans “stretching” for sunlight once they emerge. They will be longer between the soil surface and the cotyledons and also first unifoliates compared to if they were planted without a small grain. My concerns would be:
- Ensuring the soybean is planted into even moisture or able to be irrigated after planting. If you’re concerned about soil moisture and won’t get beans planted this week, you can always terminate before planting.
- The seed vee is closed if a PRE herbicide is applied. Sometimes I’ve seen difficulty in getting the seed vee closed and if that’s the case, avoid a PRE herbicide to avoid injury to the seed/germinating seedlings. Often I don’t recommend a PRE herbicide when planting green due to the tradeoff in cost between the PRE and the cost of cover crop seed and seeding. But for those who still want to use one, it’s important to ensure that seed vee is closed.
- For both corn and soybean, be aware that the taller the rye gets, the greater the Carbon:Nitrogen ratio becomes. This ratio impacts nutrient tie-up and results in longer break-down time of the small grain. For corn, it’s important to add nitrogen some way during planting to help off-set the nutrient tie-up early on in that seedling’s life. For both corn and beans, sulfur is also tied up. Purdue University found adding 20 lbs of sulfur anytime from pre-plant to V3 resulted in a yield increase. Oh, and when planting green with taller rye, we’ve found it helpful to not use residue removers.
Alfalfa Weevils: I’ve also been noticing alfalfa weevils at low incidence in alfalfa fields thus far and recommend scouting your fields. Cut 10 stems at ground level at 5 different sites in the field. Then, beat the stems in a 5 gallon bucket and count the total number of larvae with a black head. Determine the average number of larvae per stem. There’s a couple of charts with economic thresholds at: https://crops.extension.iastate.edu/encyclopedia/alfalfa-weevil. There’s also a tradeoff of harvesting early vs. spraying depending upon when economic thresholds are reached.
JenResources 4/21/25
Hope you had a blessed Easter with your families/friends! It was wonderful for those who also received some rain! Quite a bit got planted last week with the warmer soil temperatures. Continue to monitor soil moisture for individual fields to have proper seeding depth into moisture. Eric Hunt, Extension Meteorologist, mentioned March 2025 had the highest wind gusts on record in Nebraska. That’s not a desirable stat, but it does help explain why so many asked if it’s normally this windy, why the surface soil moisture dried so quickly, and why small grains and pastures haven’t grown much in spite of warm soil temps. For vegetable gardens, I placed the planting guide at: https://jenreesources.com/2025/04/14/vegetable-planting-reference/.
Crabgrass Preventer for lawns is best applied when soil temps have been 55F at 4” depth for several days. Last week we were fairly close; watch soil temperatures this week at: https://cropwatch.unl.edu/soil-temperature/. For new lawn seedings, there’s options of a couple products to prevent crabgrass. Siduron (commonly sold as Tupersan) and mesotrione (found in Scotts Turf Builder Triple Action Built for Seeding) are available options.
Roundup Products for Homeowners: It’s important to read the active ingredients on the label when shopping for products. “Typical Roundup” contains the active ingredient glyphosate which is non-selective and will kill any green plants not resistant to it. Any product containing glyphosate that is sprayed on the lawn will kill the lawn.
The product labeled “Roundup for Lawns” does not contain glyphosate, which can be confusing. Active ingredients in this product include MCPA, quinclorac, dicamba and sulfentrazone. These herbicides are effective on a broad range of weeds that might infest the lawn such as dandelion, crabgrass and nutsedge, without harming the lawn when used properly.
“Roundup 365” is a product that contains glyphosate, imazapic, and diquat. This product can provide 12 month control of weeds and is labeled for use on driveways, patios, sidewalks, and gravel areas. Just know that nothing can be safely planted back into that area for at least 12 months.
To remove undesirable trees that grow within evergreen trees or hedges like lilacs, use glyphosate instead of Tordon on the cut stumps. This is because the glyphosate doesn’t have additional soil activity and stays within the root system of the plant it’s been applied to. Just be careful to only use a product with glyphosate with nothing else added to it. Ultimately, please read the labels to ensure you’re using a product that is labeled for the place you wish to use it, for any restrictions on the product, and what pests it lists to control.
Tree Planting: With Arbor Day this week, it’s important to not plant trees too deep. Kelly Feehan shares, “If a tree is planted at the same depth it was in its container, and the soil in the planting hole beneath the root ball is loosened, odds are very good the tree will be planted too deep. Since planting trees at the same depth they are in their containers and loosening soil in the bottom of planting holes is often done, too deep of planting occurs frequently. To plant a tree at the correct depth, wait to dig the hole until after a tree’s first lateral root at the base of the trunk is located. Soil may need to be scraped off the top of the root ball to do this. Only then dig the hole just deep enough so the root ball will sit on firm, undisturbed soil and the first root is just below ground level. Dig planting holes one to two times wider than the root balls diameter to loosen soil and encourage outward tree root growth.”
For those who have put their faith, trust, and repentance in Christ alone for salvation, Easter, and every single day, holds gratitude of the price that was paid in full for sin. We serve a Risen King! “All Praise to the Name Above All Names!”
Planting 2025 Considerations
Planting Considerations: The warmer air, wind, and warming trend of soil temperatures are allowing for planting to begin. The winds have removed a great deal of surface moisture making for dry conditions where seed will be placed. I recommend putting corn and soybeans in the ground at 2” (our research recommends 1.75” for soybean). This allows for buffered soil moisture and temperature conditions when planting. Bob Nielsen, emeritus professor at Purdue said corn can be seeded 2.5-3” deep if that’s where uniform soil moisture is located in order to achieve uniform germination and emergence, particularly for non-irrigated fields. In the droughts of 2023 and 2024, we had farmers successfully plant corn at 3.5” deep just to be in uniform soil moisture. We don’t recommend planting soybean deeper than 2.5”.
Seed germination occurs in two stages. The first is imbibition in which the seed takes up water quickly. Soybean needs to uptake 50% of its seed weight during this stage and this typically occurs in less than 24 hours if the seed is placed into good soil moisture. Corn uptakes 35% of its seed weight which can occur in 48 hours when placed into good soil moisture. It’s this phase where we get concerned if we receive a cold rain or snow within 24-48 hours of planting as the soil temperature can be reduced the seed can imbibe cold water leading to cold shock, reduced germination, and potentially death.
The second phase of germination is the osmotic phase. In this phase, a much slower uptake of water occurs. Seedlings in this phase are quite tolerant of soil temps as low as 35-40°F. Extended low temperatures and/or saturated excess moisture can lengthen the germination to emergence timeframe and can lead to greater soil-borne pathogens.
Agronomically we’ve come a long way with genetics and seed treatments. Because of this, some don’t worry about soil temps. Yet every year I think most agronomists would say we can trace various problems back to a specific planting date(s) or planting window. So, I still feel they’re an important consideration.
We often hear a preference of planting corn and soybeans in as close to 50°F or greater soil temperatures as possible. Below 50°F, I prefer to see corn planted on a warming trend of 5-7 days. The consideration is for soil temps in the mid-40’s on a warming trend with no chance of a cold snap (cold rain/snow) within 8-24 hours for soybean and 48 hours for corn. The time-frame is due to the imbibition (critical water uptake) time-frame for corn and soybean mentioned above. Soil temps for your field can be monitored by using a thermometer or checking out CropWatch soil temps at: https://cropwatch.unl.edu/soiltemperature.
Since 2004, we’ve shared the importance of planting soybean early (mid- to late-April or first week of May) to increase yields. We’ve seen a shift to planting soybean earlier than corn or at least at the same time as corn, which is encouraging to me. A question I have and that an increasing number of producers have, is around soybean seed treatments. With tight economics and reasons including impacts to pollinators, some growers have tested full seed treatments vs. a biological seed treatment vs. untreated seed. We have 6 site-years of data in York, Seward, Polk, and Hamilton Counties thus far showing no yield differences between these treatments. Planting dates ranged from May 2 to May 22. I’m hoping to have more studies on this topic in 2025. Please let me know if you’re interested in trying a few strips of untreated or biological treated soybeans compared to your treated seed so we can obtain more local data.
JenResources 4/6/25
Storm Damaged Trees have been an increasing concern for homeowners. The cedar windbreaks seem to be the greatest affected and it’s hard to know how much damage has been done until you start the cleanup process. This is a resource from the Nebraska Forest Service on storm damaged trees: https://nfs.unl.edu/snow-and-ice-damage-trees/ and https://nfs.unl.edu/immediate-care-storm-damaged-trees/. Additional resources: https://nfs.unl.edu/pruning-large-trees/ and all Forest Service Resources at: https://nfs.unl.edu/nfs-publications/.
When I look at each tree situation, I look at the overall structure of the tree, if there’s any shelf fungi (look like dinner plates) on the trunk or main branches (indicator of heart rot), any other major signs of decay/disease, and seek to visualize how the tree will look upon being properly pruned. I’m not a forester, but these are quick things I’m looking for. Most of the trees I’ve recommended to keep unless they had obvious heart rot or other issues. Of key importance is to trim the trees back to the bark branch collar to allow for sealing over the pruning cut. There are places in trees with large gaping wounds from the sheer weight of branches tearing and falling. I don’t know how they will all heal and seal, but trees are pretty amazing at what they can withstand. Some of these trees have an odd-shape after pruning, but you can always make the decision to remove them later.
There have been some fungus gnat outbreaks after removing trees, especially entire windbreaks. The decaying organic matter in the soil in addition to exposed moist soil can allow for fungus gnats to thrive. They typically only live 7-10 days, but in that time-frame, the female can unfortunately lay hundreds of eggs multiple times. Thus, why a few are reporting “millions” of gnats in their farm yards. I don’t have a good answer for you on managing this. Numbers will be reduced once the soil dries out in the top two inches or so. Unfortunately, this situation will most likely take three to four weeks to potentially resolve until the gnats find a new home and/or die. If they get into your home, you can use yellow sticky traps to catch them and also shallow pans of dishwater.
Vegetable Planting Guide that was compiled by emeritus Extension Educator Gary Zoubek can be found at: https://go.unl.edu/vegetableguide.
Ground covers: The following is information from April’s ProHort Update at:https://hles.unl.edu/update042025/. Ground covers can be a great alternative to mulching the landscape bed while providing habitat for pollinators and season-long interest. They will spread and cover the ground via rhizomes or stolons while also reducing soil erosion. That makes them a great option instead of grass on a steep slope where it is hard to maintain turf. There are many native or well adapted groundcovers to choose from. Here are a few groundcover options for spring color:
- Prairie smoke (Geum triflorum), grows great in sunny, dry locations, blooms from May to July
- Sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum), grows great in dry shade, blooms April-May
- Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), grows in moist shade with blue blooms from May to June
- Creeping phlox (Phlox stolonifera), good bloomer in shade with purple blossoms in spring
- Pasque flower (Pulsatilla patens), very early spring bloomer with purple blossoms in full sun
- Candytuft (Iberis sempervirens), showy April-May bloomer in full sun
- Lungwort (Pulmonaria officinalis), small pink-blue blooms in April-May in part to full shade
JenResources 