Storm Damaged Trees have been an increasing concern for homeowners. The cedar windbreaks seem to be the greatest affected and it’s hard to know how much damage has been done until you start the cleanup process. This is a resource from the Nebraska Forest Service on storm damaged trees: https://nfs.unl.edu/snow-and-ice-damage-trees/ and https://nfs.unl.edu/immediate-care-storm-damaged-trees/. Additional resources: https://nfs.unl.edu/pruning-large-trees/ and all Forest Service Resources at: https://nfs.unl.edu/nfs-publications/.

When I look at each tree situation, I look at the overall structure of the tree, if there’s any shelf fungi (look like dinner plates) on the trunk or main branches (indicator of heart rot), any other major signs of decay/disease, and seek to visualize how the tree will look upon being properly pruned. I’m not a forester, but these are quick things I’m looking for. Most of the trees I’ve recommended to keep unless they had obvious heart rot or other issues. Of key importance is to trim the trees back to the bark branch collar to allow for sealing over the pruning cut. There are places in trees with large gaping wounds from the sheer weight of branches tearing and falling. I don’t know how they will all heal and seal, but trees are pretty amazing at what they can withstand. Some of these trees have an odd-shape after pruning, but you can always make the decision to remove them later.

There have been some fungus gnat outbreaks after removing trees, especially entire windbreaks. The decaying organic matter in the soil in addition to exposed moist soil can allow for fungus gnats to thrive. They typically only live 7-10 days, but in that time-frame, the female can unfortunately lay hundreds of eggs multiple times. Thus, why a few are reporting “millions” of gnats in their farm yards. I don’t have a good answer for you on managing this. Numbers will be reduced once the soil dries out in the top two inches or so. Unfortunately, this situation will most likely take three to four weeks to potentially resolve until the gnats find a new home and/or die. If they get into your home, you can use yellow sticky traps to catch them and also shallow pans of dishwater.

Vegetable Planting Guide that was compiled by emeritus Extension Educator Gary Zoubek can be found at: https://go.unl.edu/vegetableguide.

Ground covers: The following is information from April’s ProHort Update at:https://hles.unl.edu/update042025/. Ground covers can be a great alternative to mulching the landscape bed while providing habitat for pollinators and season-long interest. They will spread and cover the ground via rhizomes or stolons while also reducing soil erosion. That makes them a great option instead of grass on a steep slope where it is hard to maintain turf. There are many native or well adapted groundcovers to choose from. Here are a few groundcover options for spring color:

• Prairie smoke (Geum triflorum), grows great in sunny, dry locations, blooms from May to July
• Sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum), grows great in dry shade, blooms April-May
• Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), grows in moist shade with blue blooms from May to June
• Creeping phlox (Phlox stolonifera), good bloomer in shade with purple blossoms in spring
• Pasque flower (Pulsatilla patens), very early spring bloomer with purple blossoms in full sun
• Candytuft (Iberis sempervirens), showy April-May bloomer in full sun
• Lungwort (Pulmonaria officinalis), small pink-blue blooms in April-May in part to full shade