Category Archives: Trees

Spring!

Happy Belated Spring!  I meant to get this posted earlier this week but just didn’t get it done.  I love living in Nebraska and being able to observe God’s creation via the changes in seasons!  Spring and Fall are probably my favorite, but there’s beauty in all of them.  Everything is 2-3 weeks early this year so will be interesting to see if we end up with March going out like a lion or if we end up with an Easter freeze like we did a few years ago.  While it wasn’t a bad winter, I always enjoy seeing new life and green in the springtime! 

Grass greening up in front lawn.  Sending this pic out to my husband who has seen grass very little in 9.5 months in Afghanistan!  Will look forward to you helping me mow when you return! : )

My favorite tree is the magnolia and someday I hope to have one!  I always enjoy going to UNL East Campus in the spring and seeing the magnolias in bloom.  However, I was surprised how quickly they bloomed this year and that they were already loosing their blossoms!

Through the leaf mulch even my iris and daylillies are emerging.  I haven’t removed mulch yet in the event we end up with a cold snap.  It’s still early, though tempting!

Great resources from UNL regarding horticulture and turf:  http://byf.unl.edu/ and http://turf.unl.edu/.

Beauty after the Snow Storm

Here are some pics I took during our snowstorm last Saturday and the beauty in it with the sun shining on Sunday.  While snow has started melting, cold temperatures are still keeping branches of trees and shrubs heavy.  If you can, carefully take a broom and knock off the snow on bushes and shrubs to help prevent branch breakage but don’t remove the snow from around the shrubs.  Elizabeth Killinger, UNL Extension Educator in Hall County and horticulture expert, speaks about winter tree care in this post.

Protecting Shrubs/Trees from Rabbits

Hope you all had a wonderful Thanksgiving with family and friends!  As I looked into my backyard this weekend, I realized I needed to protect the new shrubs I planted from rabbit damage this winter.  Kelly Feehan, Extension Educator in Platte County shares some good information on how to do this.  She says trees are at particular risk when they are young and the bark is thin. Feeding by rabbits on tree trunks can girdle and kill a tree; or stress a tree and increase susceptibility to insect borers, disease and decay.  Ideally, place at least a two foot tall cylinder of one inch mesh poultry netting (chicken wire) or hardware cloth around tree trunks. A cylinder of black plastic drain tile, cut to length and slit down one side also works well.

Most multi-stemmed shrubs will survive having the majority of their stems removed. However, desirable bud, flower and/or fruit development may be harmed. While rabbits will nibble the tips of shrub stems growing through poultry netting or above snow, a two foot high cylinder still provides helpful protection. 

Taste and odor repellants are another method used on landscape trees and shrubs. They can be effective if rabbit populations are not too high and when rabbits have another source of food to turn to.  The effectiveness of any repellent will be reduced by time, wind and moisture. Repellants need to be reapplied according to label directions.

Taste repellents make plants less tasty for rabbits and are typically applied directly to plants. Examples are those containing capsaicin or hot pepper extract such as Get Away™ or Scoot™. Their effectiveness tends to be short-lived and requires reapplication.  Odor repellents keep rabbits away from an area by fear or foul smell. They are typically applied to soil in the perimeter area and/or on plant foliage to repel rabbits. Check the label for proper application rate, method and site before applying any repellent. Most cannot be used on plants used for human consumption.  A wide variety of active ingredients are used for odor repellants, including: ammonium or potassium salts of soaps (M-pede™; RoPel™), eggs (DeFence®), zinc dimethyldithiocarbamate (Earl May® Rabbit Scat), predator urine (Shake-Away™), or garlic (Sweeny’s® Deer & Rabbit Repellent ).  Naphthalene is another ingredient in commercial repellents (Dr. T’s™, Enoz Skat™) but the alternative chemical, paradichlorobenzene (found in many moth balls) is illegal for use outdoors. Some concern also exists over the safety of napthalene products. There are no toxicants (poisons) registered for rabbits in Nebraska. 

It is not recommended to provide an alternate source of food for rabbits to try and reduce damage to desirable plants. Providing other food, such as clover or alfalfa, may simply attract more rabbits and lead to increased damage.  Rabbit numbers may be reduced by removing brush piles and tall weeds, particularly those located near new windbreaks. Mow to remove vegetation within three to four feet of recently planted trees and shrubs.  Although rabbits eat most plants, especially when food is in short supply; a partial list of plants most often eaten by rabbits can be found in the Managing Rabbit Damage Nebguide available at local Extension offices or at http://www.ianrpubs.unl.edu/sendIt/g2019.pdf.

If a plant is killed by rabbit feeding, consider replacing it with a plant on this list. Keep this in mind though; rabbits do not read our lists!

Tree Problems

I’ve received several questions on trees.  If you have silver maplesIron Chlorosis in silver maple or pin oaks that are looking a little yellow, most likely the yellowing
is due to iron chlorosis.  Symptoms of iron chlorosis include leaves with green leaf veins while the leaf tissue is yellow-green.  Iron chlorosis is common in several of the towns in Clay County due to higher pH soils (more basic soils) which makes the iron unavailable to the plants.  Trees can be injected with iron sulfate in the base of the trunk with the amount injected dependent on the diameter of the tree.  There’s also another method of soil injection with micronutrients that can also be used.  I also have a list of tree care providers for the area for trunk injections; please contact the Extension Office if you’re interested in obtaining this list.Symptoms of iron chlorosis on silver maple-green veins-light colored tissue

On evergreen trees, spruces losing their new growth or inside needles may be doing so due to two different fungal diseases or spidermites.  If you are noticing this problem on your spruces, the time to prevent fungal diseases will be May next year with products such as Bravo, Daconil, or copper-sulfate based products.  Spidermites can be managed with insecticidal soap.  Ponderosa, Austrian, and Scotch pine trees with brown fungal bands on needles causing the needles to turn brown can be sprayed with a copper-sulfate based product now to help prevent further browning.  If large branches of your trees haveScotch pine affected with Pine Wilt needles dying, the culprit may actually be the pine wood nematode which causes pine wilt disease in Scotch pines.  There is no cure for that disease.  To determine if pine wilt is the problem, cut a piece of dead/dying branch that is at least 1 inch in diameter and 4 inches long and send it to the UNL Plant and Pest Diagnostic Lab for diagnosis.  Cedar trees are also showing Cercospora blight right now with needles turning brown.  We used to think nothing would kill a cedar tree, yet many cedar windbreaks have needles turning brown and this fungal disease is killing needles due to restricted air flow and high humidity within our windbreaks.  Restricted air flow is something you’d like with windbreaks but many of the trees in windbreaks were planted too close together many years ago and we’re starting to see more of a problem with various fungal diseases.  Another option to spraying fungicides is to consider removing every other tree from the windbreaks to allow for more air circulation to cut back on fungal diseases. 

If you’re unsure how to tell what kind of evergreen tree you have, cedar trees have needles like ropes.  Spruce needles are single and when you roll them in your fingers, they have edges to them.  Fir needles are also single and when you roll them in your fingers, they don’t roll easily like spruce needles because they are flat (flat fir).  Pine needles are always in groups-of 2, 3, or 5.  Austrian and Ponderosa pines have the very long needles; Austrians will always have long needles in groups of 2 but Ponderosa’s will have long needles in groups of 2 or 3 (If you ever see 3 needles, it’s a Ponderosa pine!).  Scotch pines always have short needles in groups of 2.  White pines have needles in groups of 5.